Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
